Columns, Drink, Featured, News, Places, San Francisco — January 19, 2011

When Fog Rolls In, Go For Rich and Romantic Cocktails

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Just over two weeks into the year, I’ve broken my unrealistic resolutions. I have been consuming ungodly amounts of hot cocoa with whiskey (topped with towers of Reddi-wip; I’m gross) while daydreaming of more temperate climates. True, the darkest days are behind us now, and the spurious sacredness of the season for eggnog and gingersnaps gone with it. But even though the light returns, the temperature’s still downshifting, and these are quiet days that call for something more romantic, beyond the common winter cocktails.

Flavors I normally find cloying, robust or way too aromatic for the summer find their ways into my cup (imagine that) on colder nights. Smoky, intense and heavy are the themes of the season, as opposed to the milder, more tender flavors of its summer counterpart.

And what I love most about drinking on these nights is that the city can feel pretty slow-mo in a filmic kind of way. When the buildings are fuzzed out in fog and I want to prolong this feeling of living in film noir (versus a summery pop song), I go for rich, comforting textures and winter fruits lolling in a bath of booze. These are my picks:

Mexican Sangria con El Charro Blanco @ Tres Agaves
Winter’s the time when the pear and apple trees get pruned, so Tres Agaves puts to use the fallen fruits in their own version of a tricked out sangria. Cranked up with tequila, the drink has a medium heat with a light agave taste. And I do love a drink that packs some heat while retaining its balance, so also in the mix is white wine, fresh lime, and soda water. But what really heightens the romance is the St. Germain liqueur. What is more idyllic than elderflower blossoms picked from the Alps and delivered to the distillery by bicycle? The taste is indeed floral sans bitter, which helps balance out the tartness of the pear and apple.

Blackbird Cobbler @ Blackbird
If you’re cool with a little post-holiday gluttony here and there and down for a heavier, heartier drink, the cobbler in the Castro’s Blackbird should sate that need for something deep and decadent. With Graham’s 10 year Tawny Port and the hazelnut flavors of Frangelico, the cobbler is a rich and oaky drink. While not a warm cocktail (it’s served over ice), it still works as dessert, combining the flavors of orange juice and an apple butter finish.

Dark and Stormy @ Bix
The name is fitting, right? This is a fairly simple drink that calls for Goslings Bermuda Black Rum and Fever-Tree Ginger Beer. I’m often leery of beer cocktails out of fear of the bloat, but this is a fairly light and actually refreshing cocktail that retains the deep and smoky flavors of the season. At first, the dark rum with the ginger beer is like a spicy cola followed by a deep, almost caramel aftertaste. Highly recommended for the rum and Coke crowd looking for a way to level up.

Rye Maple Fizz @ Rickhouse
The barrel stave ceilings inspire me to call this a sturdy, rustic drink (stick me in a barn and I’ll think I’m a cowgirl); but the Rye Maple Fizz is as rustic as it is luxurious. Frothy, meringue-y even (its got egg whites in it), this cocktail also has a slight kick.

The spice is rounded out by the faint woodsy sweetness of the maple syrup, which keeps the sweetness from overpowering the rye. With the lemon juice and bitters, it’s almost like a dialed down whiskey sour, the maple subbing in for simple syrup and adding to that pastoral essence.

Ruby Chai Appletini @ Elixir
Don’t you roll your eyes at “appletini.” I, too, recoil at the thought of a bright green drink (unless it’s a juicebox of Ecto Cooler), but Elixir has figured out the right balance between sugar and spice by using chai-infused vodka for their softened version of the cocktail. The classic wintry duo of apple and spice give this cocktail its seasonal appeal, and because of the muddled apples, the hue isn’t radioactive and the texture actually creamy.

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