I crave Vietnamese sandwiches regularly, so I’m pleased that my little corner of the East Bay — El Cerrito — is flush with them.These unique sandwiches, called bánh mì, are a hybrid of pickled vegetables and French-inspired cold cuts or other meat on long, crispy, baguette-style rolls. They’re inexpensive and great for a substantial snack or light meal.
There are bánh mì with meatballs, barbecued pork, pork roll, pork belly, tofu – you name it. Atop the meat are sliced chilies, thinly cut or shredded pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, and a handful of cilantro. The dressing varies, but is often sweet-sour.
In authentic versions, the roll is smeared with a dab of pâté, particularly the classic “combo,” which includes chicken or pork roll and head cheese. Yes, head cheese. Don’t be afraid of it. If you eat gelatin desserts you’ve already rounded that bend.
Bánh mì are addictive because of the interplay of the crisp roll, salty and savory meat filling, and zing of the pickled vegetables. Like a good slice of pizza, a good Vietnamese sandwich should meld into something greater than the sum of its parts.
We’re not talking Subway. When you bite into a bánh mì, and you know your Vietnamese cuisine, the flavors will ring familiar. Think “lettuce wrap” without the lettuce. I suggest a visit to my ‘hood when you find yourself in a bánh mì state of mind.
When I want the real deal, pâté and all, I go to this tiny takeout place with one lonely table in a forlorn strip mall. Ba Le is hardcore — and the sandwiches are tops. While the process is polite, you should quickly order by number and get out of the way of the next person in line. There are 10 sandwiches on the board with an average price of around $2.50. If you’re a bánh mì virgin, get a #2 combo. I like #6, bacon (pork belly), and #5, meatball. I certainly wouldn’t kick #1, ham and head cheese, out of bed. My husband and son go for #8, grilled pork, and there’s also a vegetarian option. Ingredients are always high quality here, especially the rolls — an essential part of Vietnamese sandwich gestalt. I’ve also had a couple of Ba Le’s soups ($6), which are quite good, particularly the bo kho (beef stew).
Pacific East Mall houses this little takeout stall that produces six respectable bánh mì. They’re more expensive than Ba Le’s, and there’s no pâté, but they’re bigger. Also, the shop almost always offers a “buy 3, get 1 free” special. If in doubt, order the combo, which has ham, pork ear in head cheese form, and pork roll ($3.95). The proprietors are extremely friendly, so you can chat with them about contents beforehand to get exactly what you want. Their barbecued meat is a little less sweet than at Ba Le, but still sweet. You’ll find an impressive menu of Hong Kong-style street food here, too, and you can wash your sandwiches down with the likes of fresh sugar cane juice ($4).
This newish little strip mall pho and rice plates joint offers a couple of straightforward grilled meat bánh mì. Check the sign on the wall — not the menu. Nice people here and diverse offerings.
