In 2004, MoMA art space PS1 presented a retrospective of 375 pieces by artist Dieter Roth, including some of his “decay objects,” sculptures made of edible materials. While then a coordinator at PS1, future artisanal chocolatier Josh Altman was especially influenced by Roth’s use of chocolate.
“I was interested in the audience’s reactions,” says Altman. “To the smells, to the properties of the chocolate.” Having studied fine art and photography, Altman didn’t set out to make chocolate his trade, but for the past six years, he’s been making small-batch bars for his beloveds. For an arts advocate and chocolate lover, the Roth exhibit hit Altman’s sweet spot.
Citing Edward Ruscha’s “Chocolate Room,” an installation made up of 360 sheets of chocolate shingles, as another influence, Altman is driven by the pairing of contemporary art and food. His fine arts background led him to do more conceptual work, preferring to curate rather than create. He curated his first show, Superfat, in 2005 to address the issues of food and consumption. “I was interested more in the research than the production,” he says. But with chocolate, he can still explore the concepts behind the food, the side of creating he’s most fascinated by.“I’m interested in the politics of chocolate,” Altman says. “The material, the structure. You can look at it as a major production and how the cocoa bean is regulated. Just look at the Ivory Coast.” In 2005, it was reported that 200,000 children were working on cocoa labor farms in the Ivory Coast, and at this time, less than 1% of the world’s chocolate market was Fair Trade. Altman only uses Fair Trade and organic ingredients, finding his materials from a small network of chocolate lovers to create his modest, simple flavors.
Using organic agave as a sweetener and pure cacao mass, Altman delves into the spirit of the craft. He’s interested in infusions, not just oils or extracts, but in the steeping of the flavors, such as the warm kick from cayenne pepper, the savory twinge of cardamom or sea salt, and the delicate and mellow natural vanilla bean. After tapping into the element of research that goes into his craft chocolates, Altman has also found a way to draw inspiration from the art world. His limited edition bar, “A Fire in My Belly” takes its name from the art piece by the late artist David Wojnarowicz.
Last October, The National Portrait Gallery opened Hide/Seek, an exhibition focusing on sexual differences in modern American portraiture and exploring how art reflects society’s progressing attitudes toward sexuality. By the end of November, the museum censored the exhibit.
Just before he took control of the House, Speaker John Boehner demanded the museum pull one piece in particular: “A Fire in My Belly,” a tribute video and tormented response to the artist’s friend’s death from AIDS. For some conservatives, the Catholic League included, the video’s disturbing use of religious imagery demanded it be pulled from the exhibit. The Smithsonian Institution surrendered to Boehner’s threat that the museum’s funding would be reconsidered when Congress reviews the next budget.
Altman saw this as an opportunity to respond to the issue of free speech and censorship in the arts. So he created the vegan, Sriracha-spiced “A Fire in My Belly” chocolates (which are smaller chocolate cups) as a way to use his craft to feed a cause he supports. 10% of the proceeds go toward furthering tolerance and freedom of speech in the arts.
The Hide/Seek exhibit ends Feb. 13, but the Wojnarowicz video continues to play in other galleries as a response to the museum’s decision to remove the video, which is “a huge disservice to freedom of speech,” says Altman. HIDESEEK.org, which is not affiliated with the Smithsonian, provides a central list of all the screenings of the video along with related events.
So with Altman’s decision to create a socially meaningful chocolate, the name of the confection, “What Am I” sounds like a big question. “It’s really just a play on that old saying, ‘What am I, chopped liver?’ My grandmother used to say that all the time. I wanted to reference that,” he says. It makes sense that when Altman started making chocolates for his close friends and family that the name should reference a loved one, but with all the care, passion, and storytelling that goes into the chocolates, the name grows in meaning. Gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once said, “Tell me what you eat, and I’ll tell you who you are.” By choosing to eat a Fair Trade chocolate inspired by contemporary art, supporting freedom of speech, you can’t help but answer part of the question: “What am I?”
Altman will continue to make contemporary art pairings and inspirations. His chocolates can be ordered at What Am I Chocolates.
Photos: Monica Abend
